Installing a Bathroom Faucet & Drain

Now that you've learned how to install a tub or shower trim (please see previous post) we can move on the the install of a bathroom faucet and drain. The installation for this product is quite easy, should only take you the bulk of a Saturday afternoon!

INSTALLING A BATHROOM FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new bathroom sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a bathroom sink may seem daunting, they are actually some of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts and the proper assistance, the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new bathroom faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat-head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW BATHROOM FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

The key difference between the pipes for the bathroom and kitchen sinks is the drainage pipes. With kitchen drains, the pipes are usually PVC. Depending on the design of the sink – i.e. if the pipes are exposed – the pipes used are usually chrome-plated copper. If the pipes are covered by the sink pedestal or a cabinet, it is recommended to use PVC plastic pipes because of their durability.

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock-nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock-nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Installation for BOTH Standalone Shower and Combination Tub & Shower

INSTALLING THE FIXTURES FOR SHOWERS AND COMBINATION TUB & SHOWERS

When the time comes to replace or install new fixtures in an existing tub shower or standalone shower, there a number of variables that should be kept in mind to make the process easier overall. Here are a number of easy-to-follow steps that could go a long way toward making the job simpler.

COMBINATION TUB & SHOWER AND SHOWER REPLACEMENTS

These may be one of the more complicated installations to swap out fixtures for because of the staggering variety of models available. There are also different things to take into consideration based on the age of the building and the type of pipes installed for the tub and shower.

It is important to note that is a good idea to shut off the water going to the bathroom before modifying any of the fixtures. If the job is a simple case of replacing the faucet trim, no major work will be required. All that needs to be done in this case is to remove the face plate, unscrew the handles and remove them before installing the new handles. In some cases, it may also require the removal of the escutcheon (the decorative plate that rests against the wall behind the faucet.) If further work needs to be done, such as the removal of the valve, it is best to attempt to access the pipes from the wall behind the faucet. If the pipes have been installed in an outermost wall of the home – something that is generally only done in warm climate areas where frozen pipes aren't an issue – then the work will have to be done from the wall in the bathroom. This will require extra work, such as removing tile and cutting into the wall to get access to the valve. Remodeling plates come in handy in this case, as the plates will cover the larger holes in the tile from having to get access to the valve. These plates are similar to the escutcheon in that they provide a decorative backdrop for the trim while still offering functionality. The downside to having to go through the front and using a remodel plate is that the new trim must only have one handle for the plate to be usable.

If the valve has been installed in an interior wall, access should be relatively easy. After uncovering the valve from the front of the tub, find the point on the other side of the wall that matches up to it. A section of the drywall will need to be cut out from the wall so the valve can be accessed. The steps from here on out vary depending on the type of supply pipes used. Very old plumbing may be using galvanized steel pipes. If there are no unions by the valves, cut the galvanized steel pipe on all sides of the valve. Remove the valve and then un-thread the cut pipes at their nearest junction. At this point, it would be a good idea to purchase the PEX adapters needed to connect the replacement PEX tubing to the existing steel connections. Ensure that the adapters being purchased match up with the threads of the steel fittings. After the adapters are installed, cut the PEX tubing as needed to fit the replacement valve and connect it to the adapters. If the installed pipes are copper, the replacement is far easier. Simply cut out the valve using pipe cutters and solder in the new valve and copper connections. Replacing existing PEX connections should be the simplest of the three, as a simple tubing swap should suffice. After the old valve is removed in any case, replace it with the new valve that matches the trim selected for the bathroom. Once the valve has been installed, install a cover panel for the section of the drywall that was removed and return to the bathroom to begin work installing the new trim. First, reattach the escutcheon if it was removed, then install the replacement cartridge for the valve. Reconnect the handle, and then turn the water on to check if the water is flowing correctly and responds to temperature changes.

As far as measurements go, there are a few things that should be kept in mind. There are specific distances between the floor and fixtures that will have to be kept standard even if replacing the valves, handles or shower heads. Firstly, the distance from the floor to the shower head needs to be at about six and a half feet. The shower handle should be between 45 to 48 inches from the ground. If it’s a combination shower and tub, the handle should be a bit lower, at around 32 inches from the ground. In bathtubs, the spout should be installed anywhere from 4 to 6 inches from the rim of the tub.

Replacing the trim of the bathtub or shower drain should be a fairly straightforward and should not require any major work. The drain can be removed using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver for leverage. The drain should easily unscrew from the threads and a new replacement can easily be dropped and threaded in. It’s important to keep in mind that for the best results it’s important to buy a drain that matches the manufacturer of the drain being replaced. A small ring of plumber’s putty on the inside rim of the drain should be all that is needed before threading on the new drain. After forming a tight seal, remove any excess putty and the drain should be set.

Summer is Here!

Are you running your A/C over time now that Summer has officially arrived? If so, check out our tips and tricks for installing a condensate pump for your A/C unit!

LITTLE GIANT CONDENSATE PUMPS

Condensate pumps are installed in fixtures such as refrigerators and air conditioners to remove buildups of condensation. Condensation occurs when water vapor comes into contact with the cooled surfaces in the fixture and begins converting to water. The condensate will usually drip down into a condensate pan that carries the water to an outside drain. In the event that the nearest drain is a far enough away from the fixture, condensate pumps are used to pump the water through piping to a plumbing drain stack or an outside drain. Liquid from the condensate pan will drain into the pump, pushing up a float as the water level rises. When the water level rises enough, the float will trigger a switch that activates the impeller at the bottom of the pump, drawing the water through and pushing it into the pipe system. Some models have a failsafe switch near the top of the pump in the event that the first switch doesn’t react. If the floater makes it to the higher switch, it sends a signal to deactivate the fixture, which prevents from the condensate from spilling over and into the inner workings of the fixture.

Franklin Electric offers a line of professional-grade Little Giant branded condensate pumps that are designed specifically for dealing with condensate buildup in fixtures. Below are a listing of the various models and their individual features.

LARGE RESERVOIR (1 GALLON) PUMPS

The largest of the available Little Giant condensate pumps are the 1-gallon reservoir pumps. These pumps are available in three general unit types, with greater variations in each of the individual models. Each model is a vertical-type pump unit with a leak- and rust-proof ABS tank. Each model is UL/CSA listed and is protected from thermal overload. Certain versions include a built in failsafe switch. Below are specifics on the individual series.

·         VCL-14 SERIES (200 gallons per hour, 1/50 horsepower, safety switch by default, 115 volts, discharge through 3/8-inch barbed adapter)

·         VCL-24ULS SERIES (270 gph, 1/18 horsepower motor, safety switch model available, 115 or 230 volt models available, discharge through 1/4-inch FNPT or 3/8-inch O.D. barbed adapter)

·         VCL-45 SERIES (450 gph, 1/5 horsepower motor, safety switch model available, 115 or 230 volt models available, discharge through 3/8-inch O.D. copper tube discharge)

LOW PROFILE (1/3 GALLON) PUMPS

In areas where space conservation is important or there is enough space in the fixture to fit a small pump, the low profile 1/3-gallon pumps can be utilized efficiently. These are best suited for high-efficiency gas furnace condensate. These pumps are available in two variations, with the key difference being the voltage. While both pumps are capable of sustaining 80 gallons per hour and come standard with a safety switch and a built-in check valve, one model is capable of 230 volts while the other only 115 volts. Both models are built with the vertical pump design and have a leak- and rust-proof ABS tank. They are also UL/CSA listed and are protected from thermal overload.

MEDIUM RESERVOIR (1/2 GALLON) PUMPS

If a full gallon reservoir isn’t needed for the fixture, Little Giant also has half-gallon reservoir pumps. These pumps are scaled down in their flow capacity as well, with the two series being available with 65 or 80 gph rates. Each pump is fitted with a half-gallon leak- and rust-proof ABS tank and the motor is protected from thermal overload. Like the low profile pumps, these are suitable for handling high-efficiency, gas-furnace condensate as well as A/C condensate. The pumps are built standard with a 3/8-inch barbed discharge port. All pumps are UL/CSA listed. Here are specifics on the individual models and variations.

·         VCMA-15 SERIES (65 gallons per hour, 1/50 horsepower motor, 115 volts, variations available with either safety switch, tubing or both)

·         VCMA-20 SERIES (80 gph, 1/30 horsepower motor, models available with either 115 or 230 volt capacity, variations available with either safety switch, tubing or both)

MEDIUM RESERVOIR (NXTGEN) PUMPS

One of the newer models of the medium capacity pumps that Little Giant has produced; the NXTGen pumps have improved flow rates in comparison to the medium reservoir pumps. There are a number of variations of the single NXTGen model pump which add additional functionality to the system. Depending on the voltage selected for the model, these pumps can sustain a flow of either 78 or 84 gallons per hour. These pumps utilize a patent-pending cooling system design and the motors are protected from thermal overload. Each pump is cCSAus listed, which qualifies it both for UL and CSA standards. The 78-gph-rate variations are capable of 230 volts and are available both in the standard model and with the safety switch variation. The 84 gph models are more prevalent, clocking in at 115 volt capacity and with variations available that include the safety switch, a length of drain tubing and an anti-sweat sleeve designed to compensate for condensate buildup on the exterior of the tank.

MINI-SPLIT/DUCTLESS – EC SERIES

For mini-split or ductless air conditioning units, Little Giant's EC-400 condensate pump is built to assist with removal of condensate buildup in these smaller units. The pump is attached to the condensate tray inside the part of the cooling unit that is installed indoors. These work slightly differently than standard condensate removal pumps, as water is needed to be suctioned into the reservoir from the condensate tray and then expelled through the pump when the reservoir reaches a certain level. The pumps are self-priming and are built to operate silently. These pumps are only capable of a simple 2.5 gallons per hour and come in two variations of voltage – 115 and 230. They come standard with an overflow safety switch that will shut down the cooling unit if it is in danger of overflowing.

SHALLOW PAN CONDENSATE PUMPS

In large or industrial-strength air conditioning units, the condensate pans are large enough that specifically designed pumps can simply be installed in the pan and they will be able to remove the condensate directly from the pan instead of having it drain into a reservoir. There are three different models of shallow pan condensate pumps offered by Little Giant, the 1- 2- and 3-ABS model shallow pan pumps. These pumps each have unique designs and capabilities which will be listed below.

·        1-ABS SERIES – This series of pump is designed for in-pan placement and condensate removal. The pump comes standard with a 1/150-horsepower oil-filled motor that is permanently lubricated and designed for maximum heat dissipation. The pump activates whenever the condensate level reaches a certain preset point. Similarly, the system will engage an automatic shut-off when the condensate depletes to a certain level. The pump was designed with high efficiency, small size and quiet running in mind, while still being able to maintain a constant flow rate of 205 gallons per hour. The only variations in this particular kind of pump are the voltage capacities, with specific models available with 115 or 230 volt capacity.

·         2-ABS SERIES – As with the 1-ABS, this pump was designed for in-pan placement. It has a 1/40-horsepower oil-filled motor that is capable of an output of 300 gallons per hour. Functioning similarly to the previous pump, it activates and deactivates at pre-set levels. This model of pump can be installed with a half-gallon ABS tank if needed. As with the 1-ABS, there are 115- or 230-volt variants.

·         3-ABS SERIES – The highest capacity pump available from Little Giant, the 3-ABS shallow pan condensate removal pump comes standard with a 1/12-horsepower motor and an epoxy-coated aluminum motor cover. It also has a galvanized steel tank cover and a 1-gallon tank capacity. The pump is capable of a constant output rate of 310 gallons per hour and will activate and deactivate automatically as is the standard for the ABS series. As with the previous two ABS models, 115- and 230-volt variants are available.

Bathroom Sink Faucet Installation

INSTALLING A BATHROOM SINK FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new bathroom sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a bathroom sink may seem daunting, doing so is actually one of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts, and the proper assistance - the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new bathroom faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat-head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty, and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW BATHROOM SINK FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

The key difference between the pipes for the bathroom and kitchen sinks is the drainage pipes. With kitchen drains, the pipes are usually PVC. Depending on the design of the sink – i.e. if the pipes are exposed – the pipes used are usually chrome-plated copper. If the pipes are covered by the sink pedestal or a cabinet, it is recommended to use PVC plastic pipes because of their durability.

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock-nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock-nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Bathtub Renovation!

INSTALLING A ROMAN TUB FAUCET, VALVE & DRAIN

Soaking tubs, or roman tubs as they are commonly referred to, are a special variety of bathtub found in some bathrooms. Unlike a typical bathtub/shower combination, roman tubs are meant solely for long-term soaking sessions. Due to the nature of these tubs, installing the inner workings may at first seem daunting; however with proper knowledge the task becomes much simpler. This guide will provide easy to follow instructions for the installation of a roman tub faucet, valve, and drain.

Example of a Roman Tub

As this is an advanced project, this guide assumes that a new roman tub and deck have been selected and the necessary rough-in kits for the faucet and drain have been purchased already. The water to the bathroom should be shut off before working and the supply lines should be capped and marked.

ROMAN TUB DRAIN

The new tub’s drain should match up with the previous tub drain if this is a remodeling project. If it is a fresh installation, then the drain pipe should already match the desired location for the roman tub. The p-trap and drainage hole for the tub should match up. Now install the overflow and standard drain pipes. The overflow is usually located a couple of inches below the rim of the tub basin on the front of the tub and is used to drain water should the level rise high enough to reach the height. The overflow drain pipe connects to the main tub drain via a simple tee connection. Once the tub drain pipe is installed, thread on the strainer through the hole at bottom of the tub basin and secure it. It may be warranted at this point to check the seal on the drain by pouring a bucket of water into the tub and checking the pipes for leaks.

ROMAN TUB VALVE & FAUCET

First, an important note about valve installation and faucet trim: the faucet body must match the manufacturer of the valve that is installed. It is important to pick out the design of the faucet first, and then purchase the valve that matches. If this is a remodeling job, the valve won’t need to be replaced if the new faucet trim is compatible with the existing valve. Replacing the valve will require access to the underside of the tub, requiring delicate and time-consuming work. Some faucets come with a rough-in kit that includes everything needed for installation of the faucet and spout. The valve, as mentioned above, is sold separately from the faucet trim and should be installed first.

By this point of the installation, the tub should already be set into the deck and the drain should be installed. If done properly, the location of the water supply lines were marked on the deck or tub rim so the proper holes could be cut. If this is a standard two-handle tub faucet, cut three adequately sized holes at the proper location. At this point, the tile surface of the deck should be installed. Be sure to leave space for the holes that were just cut or cut the tiles accordingly. The installation of the faucet valve varies by manufacturer, so specific instructions should be followed here. The most common installation method is to drop in the valve through the top and use a retaining nut to fasten it to the underside of the deck or tub rim. Afterward, the water supply lines are connected to the valves underneath the rim. Connect the supply lines from the valves to the spout shank. Drop the spout in through the top and fasten the retaining nut before connecting it to the joined supply line. Attach the faucet handles to the valves. Once the entire faucet has been installed and the tub is ready for a test run, turn on the water supply to the bathroom and turn on each faucet individually to check the connection.

Kitchen Faucet Renovation!

Hopefully by now you have installed your sprinkler system and all is well! Now that your sprinkler project is out of the way, Spring is a great time to do home renovations! At PlumbersStock.com we offer a wide range of kitchen faucets. Installing a new kitchen faucet is a simple and inexpensive home renovation that will bring a new, exciting look to one of the mostly frequently used rooms in your home. 

The following guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new kitchen faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW KITCHEN FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. If a dishwasher is installed next to the sink, remove the hose that is attached to the drain by loosening the clamp that secures the hose to the drain pipe. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Is it Spring yet?

How to Install a Home Sprinkler System

                

The installation of a sprinkler system is both labor intensive and requires attention to detail, as incorrect placement or spacing could lead to serious problems and much more work down the line. This article serves as a primer that can be referenced if you are considering installing a sprinkler system. 

Also see our post below for the layout guidelines to a sprinkler system!

Connecting the Water Supply

In order to supply water to the sprinkler system, the main water line will need to be tapped into. In some cases, the line was installed with a stub-out specifically for future irrigation. If this is the case, the back-flow prevention device can be installed at the stub-out. This is rapidly becoming the standard for new construction projects. In cases where no stub-out was provided, the main line will need to be tapped into with a compression tee and a stub-out installed. The water line is usually found by locating the water meter on the property, following the pipe direction for a couple of feet and digging down. If it is a cold weather climate, the main line can usually be found 3-5 feet deep. Warmer weather climates will tend to have the main line anywhere from 1-3 feet underground.

Marking the Sprinkler Head Positions

The next step for installation is mapping out the layout onto the lawn. There are a number of different methods for marking the layout. In most cases, the sprinkler heads are marked using wooden stakes or marking flags and the pipe network is designated using either string or marking paint. While the paint applicator and paint may be costlier, it can also help avoid issues with uneven or curved trenches.  This is an important step because it allows you to physically check to ensure that the distances between the sprinkler heads are correct, and that there will be no conflict when setting the pipes. If the initial layout was correct, the heads will be within the maximum distance of each other, providing total coverage. If a redesign is needed, it is best to take the time to do it now before the trenching and installation is finished.

Preparing for Trenching

It is advisable at this point to contact the utility locator service for the state. The name varies by state, but their intentions are all the same: to notify people of utility lines that may be running under their property. Having the center send someone out to mark the property is required in some states, but should be done in all circumstances. A worker will mark the lines on the surface using colored spray paint to indicate what kind of utility line it is. Using these markings as guidelines can prevent the damaging of a utility line while digging the trenches for the sprinkler pipes. If further incentive is needed, damaging a utility line and/or not having contacted a utility locator to mark the property usually results in a significant fine – and in some cases, a criminal charge.

If the marked utility lines interfere with the planned layout of the sprinkler system, adjustments will be needed. This may require a minor change in the branching of a zone, or to redesign the zones entirely.

Digging the Trenches

Once the property has been checked by the locator service and any lines have been marked, the trenching process can begin. Although the trenching process can be done by hand using trenching shovels, it is by far more common currently to use a automatic trencher. Plumbing or sprinkler suppliers may carry a trencher that can be rented as part of purchasing the necessary parts. If not at a supplier, many heavy equipment rental companies will have a selection of trenchers available. In comparison to digging the trenches by hand, the automatic trencher is far more efficient.

For warmer climates, the piping will only need to be 4-6 inches deep. In colder climates that can experience sudden hard freezes, it is better for the pipes to be deeper underground, anywhere from 8-12 inches deep. The deeper the pipes are, the less likely they are to freeze. When digging the trenches, they should be as narrow as possible, in most cases only 3 inches wide.

Installing the Controller and Valves

After trenching is complete, the valve manifold should be installed. Run pipe from the main line down to the area where the valve manifold will be. The next section includes information on connecting the two major pipe types to fixtures, and it may be advisable to review it before attempting to attach the manifold to the pipe. In most circumstances, installing the manifold so the valves are at ground level will be sufficient, however if using anti-siphon valves they must be 6 – 12 inches above the highest sprinkler head so the back-flow prevention systems work.

The sprinkler controller is essentially the brain of the system and is usually mounted on an exterior wall of the home near the sprinkler valves. This device will control the activation and shutdown of each valve and their associated zone.

Assembling the Pipes and Wiring

Once the controller and valves are installed, the piping can be assembled. In general, it is a good idea to start from the valve manifold and piece together the pipe system from the manifold out to the individual branches of the system. If the system was designed with PVC pipe in mind, the standard tool for connecting pipes and fittings is PVC cement. PVC primer can also be used, but it is not always required. It is best to check local plumbing codes on the requirement of using PVC primer. Using PVC cement (and primer, if desired), connect the pipes to their fittings and expand the grid out from the source to the end of each branch. When installing, it is important to try to avoid allowing dirt from the trenches into the pipes being assembled. If the system was designed to use PE pipe, the fittings are inserted into the PE pipe and stainless steel clamp is tightened around the PE pipe to keep the fittings in place. A rapidly growing alternative is to use specific fittings from Blazing Products that have been specifically designed to be quick to install in PE pipe and do not require clamps.

If considerations are being taken due to the system being installed in a cold climate, now is the time to install them. If using drain valves, this will require installing an additional tee for each drain valve. if an air compressor adapter was planned, the drain valves are not required but can still be used. The adapter should be installed before the valve manifold when attaching the valves.

Once the grid is finished and connected to the water supply, but before the sprinkler heads are installed, it is important to flush the system to clear the pipes of any dirt that may have found its way into the piping. After turning on the water for each zone for about two minutes, the pipes should be clear and the trenches can be refilled.

The wiring of the system will extend from the controller down to the side of the residence and into the trenches until it reaches the valve manifold. As such, it is important to use 18-gauge wire that can be buried. If installing a system that uses multiple valves, be sure to order wiring that has strands equal to the number of valves plus one. The wire will have one strand that connects to each individual valve back to the controller, and the remaining strand – referred to as the common wire – connects all of the valves to the controller in a single chain.

Filling the Trenches and Attaching the Sprinkler Heads

At this point, it is recommended to begin refilling the trenches. It is not necessary to completely fill the trenches quite yet, but rather only to cover the pipes. Leave space near the sprinkler risers to install the heads. Once the pipes are buried, it is recommended to do another flush of the system to ensure that there are no blockages. Leave the water on in each zone for around 2-3 minutes to ensure thorough flushing. After the flushing process is complete, the sprinkler heads can be installed. Ensure that the proper nozzles are being used and that they are adjusted to match the design of the system. Once the heads are installed, activate each zone again to ensure the sprinkler heads are all working. Adjust the spray patterns on each nozzle to ensure they are overlapping with adjacent sprinkler heads. It is also necessary to adjust them if they are spraying the house, sidewalks or other areas that should not be watered. If something is wrong, you may have to dig up the pipe for the particular area and re-check the connection. If nothing went wrong, then the installation is complete.

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