Installing a Bathroom Faucet & Drain

Now that you've learned how to install a tub or shower trim (please see previous post) we can move on the the install of a bathroom faucet and drain. The installation for this product is quite easy, should only take you the bulk of a Saturday afternoon!

INSTALLING A BATHROOM FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new bathroom sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a bathroom sink may seem daunting, they are actually some of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts and the proper assistance, the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new bathroom faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat-head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW BATHROOM FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

The key difference between the pipes for the bathroom and kitchen sinks is the drainage pipes. With kitchen drains, the pipes are usually PVC. Depending on the design of the sink – i.e. if the pipes are exposed – the pipes used are usually chrome-plated copper. If the pipes are covered by the sink pedestal or a cabinet, it is recommended to use PVC plastic pipes because of their durability.

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock-nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock-nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Installation for BOTH Standalone Shower and Combination Tub & Shower

INSTALLING THE FIXTURES FOR SHOWERS AND COMBINATION TUB & SHOWERS

When the time comes to replace or install new fixtures in an existing tub shower or standalone shower, there a number of variables that should be kept in mind to make the process easier overall. Here are a number of easy-to-follow steps that could go a long way toward making the job simpler.

COMBINATION TUB & SHOWER AND SHOWER REPLACEMENTS

These may be one of the more complicated installations to swap out fixtures for because of the staggering variety of models available. There are also different things to take into consideration based on the age of the building and the type of pipes installed for the tub and shower.

It is important to note that is a good idea to shut off the water going to the bathroom before modifying any of the fixtures. If the job is a simple case of replacing the faucet trim, no major work will be required. All that needs to be done in this case is to remove the face plate, unscrew the handles and remove them before installing the new handles. In some cases, it may also require the removal of the escutcheon (the decorative plate that rests against the wall behind the faucet.) If further work needs to be done, such as the removal of the valve, it is best to attempt to access the pipes from the wall behind the faucet. If the pipes have been installed in an outermost wall of the home – something that is generally only done in warm climate areas where frozen pipes aren't an issue – then the work will have to be done from the wall in the bathroom. This will require extra work, such as removing tile and cutting into the wall to get access to the valve. Remodeling plates come in handy in this case, as the plates will cover the larger holes in the tile from having to get access to the valve. These plates are similar to the escutcheon in that they provide a decorative backdrop for the trim while still offering functionality. The downside to having to go through the front and using a remodel plate is that the new trim must only have one handle for the plate to be usable.

If the valve has been installed in an interior wall, access should be relatively easy. After uncovering the valve from the front of the tub, find the point on the other side of the wall that matches up to it. A section of the drywall will need to be cut out from the wall so the valve can be accessed. The steps from here on out vary depending on the type of supply pipes used. Very old plumbing may be using galvanized steel pipes. If there are no unions by the valves, cut the galvanized steel pipe on all sides of the valve. Remove the valve and then un-thread the cut pipes at their nearest junction. At this point, it would be a good idea to purchase the PEX adapters needed to connect the replacement PEX tubing to the existing steel connections. Ensure that the adapters being purchased match up with the threads of the steel fittings. After the adapters are installed, cut the PEX tubing as needed to fit the replacement valve and connect it to the adapters. If the installed pipes are copper, the replacement is far easier. Simply cut out the valve using pipe cutters and solder in the new valve and copper connections. Replacing existing PEX connections should be the simplest of the three, as a simple tubing swap should suffice. After the old valve is removed in any case, replace it with the new valve that matches the trim selected for the bathroom. Once the valve has been installed, install a cover panel for the section of the drywall that was removed and return to the bathroom to begin work installing the new trim. First, reattach the escutcheon if it was removed, then install the replacement cartridge for the valve. Reconnect the handle, and then turn the water on to check if the water is flowing correctly and responds to temperature changes.

As far as measurements go, there are a few things that should be kept in mind. There are specific distances between the floor and fixtures that will have to be kept standard even if replacing the valves, handles or shower heads. Firstly, the distance from the floor to the shower head needs to be at about six and a half feet. The shower handle should be between 45 to 48 inches from the ground. If it’s a combination shower and tub, the handle should be a bit lower, at around 32 inches from the ground. In bathtubs, the spout should be installed anywhere from 4 to 6 inches from the rim of the tub.

Replacing the trim of the bathtub or shower drain should be a fairly straightforward and should not require any major work. The drain can be removed using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver for leverage. The drain should easily unscrew from the threads and a new replacement can easily be dropped and threaded in. It’s important to keep in mind that for the best results it’s important to buy a drain that matches the manufacturer of the drain being replaced. A small ring of plumber’s putty on the inside rim of the drain should be all that is needed before threading on the new drain. After forming a tight seal, remove any excess putty and the drain should be set.

Summer is Here!

Are you running your A/C over time now that Summer has officially arrived? If so, check out our tips and tricks for installing a condensate pump for your A/C unit!

LITTLE GIANT CONDENSATE PUMPS

Condensate pumps are installed in fixtures such as refrigerators and air conditioners to remove buildups of condensation. Condensation occurs when water vapor comes into contact with the cooled surfaces in the fixture and begins converting to water. The condensate will usually drip down into a condensate pan that carries the water to an outside drain. In the event that the nearest drain is a far enough away from the fixture, condensate pumps are used to pump the water through piping to a plumbing drain stack or an outside drain. Liquid from the condensate pan will drain into the pump, pushing up a float as the water level rises. When the water level rises enough, the float will trigger a switch that activates the impeller at the bottom of the pump, drawing the water through and pushing it into the pipe system. Some models have a failsafe switch near the top of the pump in the event that the first switch doesn’t react. If the floater makes it to the higher switch, it sends a signal to deactivate the fixture, which prevents from the condensate from spilling over and into the inner workings of the fixture.

Franklin Electric offers a line of professional-grade Little Giant branded condensate pumps that are designed specifically for dealing with condensate buildup in fixtures. Below are a listing of the various models and their individual features.

LARGE RESERVOIR (1 GALLON) PUMPS

The largest of the available Little Giant condensate pumps are the 1-gallon reservoir pumps. These pumps are available in three general unit types, with greater variations in each of the individual models. Each model is a vertical-type pump unit with a leak- and rust-proof ABS tank. Each model is UL/CSA listed and is protected from thermal overload. Certain versions include a built in failsafe switch. Below are specifics on the individual series.

·         VCL-14 SERIES (200 gallons per hour, 1/50 horsepower, safety switch by default, 115 volts, discharge through 3/8-inch barbed adapter)

·         VCL-24ULS SERIES (270 gph, 1/18 horsepower motor, safety switch model available, 115 or 230 volt models available, discharge through 1/4-inch FNPT or 3/8-inch O.D. barbed adapter)

·         VCL-45 SERIES (450 gph, 1/5 horsepower motor, safety switch model available, 115 or 230 volt models available, discharge through 3/8-inch O.D. copper tube discharge)

LOW PROFILE (1/3 GALLON) PUMPS

In areas where space conservation is important or there is enough space in the fixture to fit a small pump, the low profile 1/3-gallon pumps can be utilized efficiently. These are best suited for high-efficiency gas furnace condensate. These pumps are available in two variations, with the key difference being the voltage. While both pumps are capable of sustaining 80 gallons per hour and come standard with a safety switch and a built-in check valve, one model is capable of 230 volts while the other only 115 volts. Both models are built with the vertical pump design and have a leak- and rust-proof ABS tank. They are also UL/CSA listed and are protected from thermal overload.

MEDIUM RESERVOIR (1/2 GALLON) PUMPS

If a full gallon reservoir isn’t needed for the fixture, Little Giant also has half-gallon reservoir pumps. These pumps are scaled down in their flow capacity as well, with the two series being available with 65 or 80 gph rates. Each pump is fitted with a half-gallon leak- and rust-proof ABS tank and the motor is protected from thermal overload. Like the low profile pumps, these are suitable for handling high-efficiency, gas-furnace condensate as well as A/C condensate. The pumps are built standard with a 3/8-inch barbed discharge port. All pumps are UL/CSA listed. Here are specifics on the individual models and variations.

·         VCMA-15 SERIES (65 gallons per hour, 1/50 horsepower motor, 115 volts, variations available with either safety switch, tubing or both)

·         VCMA-20 SERIES (80 gph, 1/30 horsepower motor, models available with either 115 or 230 volt capacity, variations available with either safety switch, tubing or both)

MEDIUM RESERVOIR (NXTGEN) PUMPS

One of the newer models of the medium capacity pumps that Little Giant has produced; the NXTGen pumps have improved flow rates in comparison to the medium reservoir pumps. There are a number of variations of the single NXTGen model pump which add additional functionality to the system. Depending on the voltage selected for the model, these pumps can sustain a flow of either 78 or 84 gallons per hour. These pumps utilize a patent-pending cooling system design and the motors are protected from thermal overload. Each pump is cCSAus listed, which qualifies it both for UL and CSA standards. The 78-gph-rate variations are capable of 230 volts and are available both in the standard model and with the safety switch variation. The 84 gph models are more prevalent, clocking in at 115 volt capacity and with variations available that include the safety switch, a length of drain tubing and an anti-sweat sleeve designed to compensate for condensate buildup on the exterior of the tank.

MINI-SPLIT/DUCTLESS – EC SERIES

For mini-split or ductless air conditioning units, Little Giant's EC-400 condensate pump is built to assist with removal of condensate buildup in these smaller units. The pump is attached to the condensate tray inside the part of the cooling unit that is installed indoors. These work slightly differently than standard condensate removal pumps, as water is needed to be suctioned into the reservoir from the condensate tray and then expelled through the pump when the reservoir reaches a certain level. The pumps are self-priming and are built to operate silently. These pumps are only capable of a simple 2.5 gallons per hour and come in two variations of voltage – 115 and 230. They come standard with an overflow safety switch that will shut down the cooling unit if it is in danger of overflowing.

SHALLOW PAN CONDENSATE PUMPS

In large or industrial-strength air conditioning units, the condensate pans are large enough that specifically designed pumps can simply be installed in the pan and they will be able to remove the condensate directly from the pan instead of having it drain into a reservoir. There are three different models of shallow pan condensate pumps offered by Little Giant, the 1- 2- and 3-ABS model shallow pan pumps. These pumps each have unique designs and capabilities which will be listed below.

·        1-ABS SERIES – This series of pump is designed for in-pan placement and condensate removal. The pump comes standard with a 1/150-horsepower oil-filled motor that is permanently lubricated and designed for maximum heat dissipation. The pump activates whenever the condensate level reaches a certain preset point. Similarly, the system will engage an automatic shut-off when the condensate depletes to a certain level. The pump was designed with high efficiency, small size and quiet running in mind, while still being able to maintain a constant flow rate of 205 gallons per hour. The only variations in this particular kind of pump are the voltage capacities, with specific models available with 115 or 230 volt capacity.

·         2-ABS SERIES – As with the 1-ABS, this pump was designed for in-pan placement. It has a 1/40-horsepower oil-filled motor that is capable of an output of 300 gallons per hour. Functioning similarly to the previous pump, it activates and deactivates at pre-set levels. This model of pump can be installed with a half-gallon ABS tank if needed. As with the 1-ABS, there are 115- or 230-volt variants.

·         3-ABS SERIES – The highest capacity pump available from Little Giant, the 3-ABS shallow pan condensate removal pump comes standard with a 1/12-horsepower motor and an epoxy-coated aluminum motor cover. It also has a galvanized steel tank cover and a 1-gallon tank capacity. The pump is capable of a constant output rate of 310 gallons per hour and will activate and deactivate automatically as is the standard for the ABS series. As with the previous two ABS models, 115- and 230-volt variants are available.

Bathroom Sink Faucet Installation

INSTALLING A BATHROOM SINK FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new bathroom sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a bathroom sink may seem daunting, doing so is actually one of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts, and the proper assistance - the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new bathroom faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat-head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty, and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW BATHROOM SINK FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

The key difference between the pipes for the bathroom and kitchen sinks is the drainage pipes. With kitchen drains, the pipes are usually PVC. Depending on the design of the sink – i.e. if the pipes are exposed – the pipes used are usually chrome-plated copper. If the pipes are covered by the sink pedestal or a cabinet, it is recommended to use PVC plastic pipes because of their durability.

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock-nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock-nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Bathtub Renovation!

INSTALLING A ROMAN TUB FAUCET, VALVE & DRAIN

Soaking tubs, or roman tubs as they are commonly referred to, are a special variety of bathtub found in some bathrooms. Unlike a typical bathtub/shower combination, roman tubs are meant solely for long-term soaking sessions. Due to the nature of these tubs, installing the inner workings may at first seem daunting; however with proper knowledge the task becomes much simpler. This guide will provide easy to follow instructions for the installation of a roman tub faucet, valve, and drain.

Example of a Roman Tub

As this is an advanced project, this guide assumes that a new roman tub and deck have been selected and the necessary rough-in kits for the faucet and drain have been purchased already. The water to the bathroom should be shut off before working and the supply lines should be capped and marked.

ROMAN TUB DRAIN

The new tub’s drain should match up with the previous tub drain if this is a remodeling project. If it is a fresh installation, then the drain pipe should already match the desired location for the roman tub. The p-trap and drainage hole for the tub should match up. Now install the overflow and standard drain pipes. The overflow is usually located a couple of inches below the rim of the tub basin on the front of the tub and is used to drain water should the level rise high enough to reach the height. The overflow drain pipe connects to the main tub drain via a simple tee connection. Once the tub drain pipe is installed, thread on the strainer through the hole at bottom of the tub basin and secure it. It may be warranted at this point to check the seal on the drain by pouring a bucket of water into the tub and checking the pipes for leaks.

ROMAN TUB VALVE & FAUCET

First, an important note about valve installation and faucet trim: the faucet body must match the manufacturer of the valve that is installed. It is important to pick out the design of the faucet first, and then purchase the valve that matches. If this is a remodeling job, the valve won’t need to be replaced if the new faucet trim is compatible with the existing valve. Replacing the valve will require access to the underside of the tub, requiring delicate and time-consuming work. Some faucets come with a rough-in kit that includes everything needed for installation of the faucet and spout. The valve, as mentioned above, is sold separately from the faucet trim and should be installed first.

By this point of the installation, the tub should already be set into the deck and the drain should be installed. If done properly, the location of the water supply lines were marked on the deck or tub rim so the proper holes could be cut. If this is a standard two-handle tub faucet, cut three adequately sized holes at the proper location. At this point, the tile surface of the deck should be installed. Be sure to leave space for the holes that were just cut or cut the tiles accordingly. The installation of the faucet valve varies by manufacturer, so specific instructions should be followed here. The most common installation method is to drop in the valve through the top and use a retaining nut to fasten it to the underside of the deck or tub rim. Afterward, the water supply lines are connected to the valves underneath the rim. Connect the supply lines from the valves to the spout shank. Drop the spout in through the top and fasten the retaining nut before connecting it to the joined supply line. Attach the faucet handles to the valves. Once the entire faucet has been installed and the tub is ready for a test run, turn on the water supply to the bathroom and turn on each faucet individually to check the connection.

Kitchen Faucet Renovation!

Hopefully by now you have installed your sprinkler system and all is well! Now that your sprinkler project is out of the way, Spring is a great time to do home renovations! At PlumbersStock.com we offer a wide range of kitchen faucets. Installing a new kitchen faucet is a simple and inexpensive home renovation that will bring a new, exciting look to one of the mostly frequently used rooms in your home. 

The following guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new kitchen faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW KITCHEN FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. If a dishwasher is installed next to the sink, remove the hose that is attached to the drain by loosening the clamp that secures the hose to the drain pipe. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Is it Spring yet?

How to Install a Home Sprinkler System

                

The installation of a sprinkler system is both labor intensive and requires attention to detail, as incorrect placement or spacing could lead to serious problems and much more work down the line. This article serves as a primer that can be referenced if you are considering installing a sprinkler system. 

Also see our post below for the layout guidelines to a sprinkler system!

Connecting the Water Supply

In order to supply water to the sprinkler system, the main water line will need to be tapped into. In some cases, the line was installed with a stub-out specifically for future irrigation. If this is the case, the back-flow prevention device can be installed at the stub-out. This is rapidly becoming the standard for new construction projects. In cases where no stub-out was provided, the main line will need to be tapped into with a compression tee and a stub-out installed. The water line is usually found by locating the water meter on the property, following the pipe direction for a couple of feet and digging down. If it is a cold weather climate, the main line can usually be found 3-5 feet deep. Warmer weather climates will tend to have the main line anywhere from 1-3 feet underground.

Marking the Sprinkler Head Positions

The next step for installation is mapping out the layout onto the lawn. There are a number of different methods for marking the layout. In most cases, the sprinkler heads are marked using wooden stakes or marking flags and the pipe network is designated using either string or marking paint. While the paint applicator and paint may be costlier, it can also help avoid issues with uneven or curved trenches.  This is an important step because it allows you to physically check to ensure that the distances between the sprinkler heads are correct, and that there will be no conflict when setting the pipes. If the initial layout was correct, the heads will be within the maximum distance of each other, providing total coverage. If a redesign is needed, it is best to take the time to do it now before the trenching and installation is finished.

Preparing for Trenching

It is advisable at this point to contact the utility locator service for the state. The name varies by state, but their intentions are all the same: to notify people of utility lines that may be running under their property. Having the center send someone out to mark the property is required in some states, but should be done in all circumstances. A worker will mark the lines on the surface using colored spray paint to indicate what kind of utility line it is. Using these markings as guidelines can prevent the damaging of a utility line while digging the trenches for the sprinkler pipes. If further incentive is needed, damaging a utility line and/or not having contacted a utility locator to mark the property usually results in a significant fine – and in some cases, a criminal charge.

If the marked utility lines interfere with the planned layout of the sprinkler system, adjustments will be needed. This may require a minor change in the branching of a zone, or to redesign the zones entirely.

Digging the Trenches

Once the property has been checked by the locator service and any lines have been marked, the trenching process can begin. Although the trenching process can be done by hand using trenching shovels, it is by far more common currently to use a automatic trencher. Plumbing or sprinkler suppliers may carry a trencher that can be rented as part of purchasing the necessary parts. If not at a supplier, many heavy equipment rental companies will have a selection of trenchers available. In comparison to digging the trenches by hand, the automatic trencher is far more efficient.

For warmer climates, the piping will only need to be 4-6 inches deep. In colder climates that can experience sudden hard freezes, it is better for the pipes to be deeper underground, anywhere from 8-12 inches deep. The deeper the pipes are, the less likely they are to freeze. When digging the trenches, they should be as narrow as possible, in most cases only 3 inches wide.

Installing the Controller and Valves

After trenching is complete, the valve manifold should be installed. Run pipe from the main line down to the area where the valve manifold will be. The next section includes information on connecting the two major pipe types to fixtures, and it may be advisable to review it before attempting to attach the manifold to the pipe. In most circumstances, installing the manifold so the valves are at ground level will be sufficient, however if using anti-siphon valves they must be 6 – 12 inches above the highest sprinkler head so the back-flow prevention systems work.

The sprinkler controller is essentially the brain of the system and is usually mounted on an exterior wall of the home near the sprinkler valves. This device will control the activation and shutdown of each valve and their associated zone.

Assembling the Pipes and Wiring

Once the controller and valves are installed, the piping can be assembled. In general, it is a good idea to start from the valve manifold and piece together the pipe system from the manifold out to the individual branches of the system. If the system was designed with PVC pipe in mind, the standard tool for connecting pipes and fittings is PVC cement. PVC primer can also be used, but it is not always required. It is best to check local plumbing codes on the requirement of using PVC primer. Using PVC cement (and primer, if desired), connect the pipes to their fittings and expand the grid out from the source to the end of each branch. When installing, it is important to try to avoid allowing dirt from the trenches into the pipes being assembled. If the system was designed to use PE pipe, the fittings are inserted into the PE pipe and stainless steel clamp is tightened around the PE pipe to keep the fittings in place. A rapidly growing alternative is to use specific fittings from Blazing Products that have been specifically designed to be quick to install in PE pipe and do not require clamps.

If considerations are being taken due to the system being installed in a cold climate, now is the time to install them. If using drain valves, this will require installing an additional tee for each drain valve. if an air compressor adapter was planned, the drain valves are not required but can still be used. The adapter should be installed before the valve manifold when attaching the valves.

Once the grid is finished and connected to the water supply, but before the sprinkler heads are installed, it is important to flush the system to clear the pipes of any dirt that may have found its way into the piping. After turning on the water for each zone for about two minutes, the pipes should be clear and the trenches can be refilled.

The wiring of the system will extend from the controller down to the side of the residence and into the trenches until it reaches the valve manifold. As such, it is important to use 18-gauge wire that can be buried. If installing a system that uses multiple valves, be sure to order wiring that has strands equal to the number of valves plus one. The wire will have one strand that connects to each individual valve back to the controller, and the remaining strand – referred to as the common wire – connects all of the valves to the controller in a single chain.

Filling the Trenches and Attaching the Sprinkler Heads

At this point, it is recommended to begin refilling the trenches. It is not necessary to completely fill the trenches quite yet, but rather only to cover the pipes. Leave space near the sprinkler risers to install the heads. Once the pipes are buried, it is recommended to do another flush of the system to ensure that there are no blockages. Leave the water on in each zone for around 2-3 minutes to ensure thorough flushing. After the flushing process is complete, the sprinkler heads can be installed. Ensure that the proper nozzles are being used and that they are adjusted to match the design of the system. Once the heads are installed, activate each zone again to ensure the sprinkler heads are all working. Adjust the spray patterns on each nozzle to ensure they are overlapping with adjacent sprinkler heads. It is also necessary to adjust them if they are spraying the house, sidewalks or other areas that should not be watered. If something is wrong, you may have to dig up the pipe for the particular area and re-check the connection. If nothing went wrong, then the installation is complete.

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Sprinkler Season is Upon Us!

HOW TO LAY OUT A HOME SPRINKLER SYSTEM

                

Possibly the most difficult step in implementing a home sprinkler system is settling on a layout to use. Several variables have to be taken into account, such as the water pressure on the property, the overall shape of the lawn and designating the layout of watering zones on the property. This article should provide some general guidelines that can help make designing the layout less of an ordeal.

GAUGING WATER PRESSURE AND CAPACITY

The first step in the design of an irrigation system needs to be checking the main water supply’s output and pressure. The key elements of the irrigation design will depend on the water capacity and pressure of the supply line. If the water is coming through at over 30 psi, rotor sprinkler systems become an option. Less than 30 pounds of pressure means that a pop-up spray system will be ideal, as misting – where water is being forced through the spray heads at too high a pressure – becomes an issue at pressures exceeding 30 psi.

For measuring the flow of water, a simple mathematical equation should provide the answer. Take a 5 gallon bucket and time how long it takes for the bucket to fill from the water line. Divide 60 by the number of seconds it took, and then multiply that number by 5 – the number of gallons – to get the gallons per minute. As an example: filling the 5 gallon bucket takes 15 seconds. 60 divided by 15 is 4. 4 multiplied by 5 equals 20, so the flow of the main line is 20 gallons per minute.

MAPPING THE YARD

The next step in the designing process is drawing a map of the area that will be watered. It is important to note the different things in the yard such as trees or shrubs, where the yard meets the sidewalk, flower beds or other features of the lawn. It is also important to note the location of the main water supply line on the map.

When designing the layout for the system it is a good idea to factor in the sprinkler head ranges you will need to cover all sections of the lawn. The sprinklers should be spaced so that the radius of one head reaches the next sprinkler in the zone. This is called “head-to-head spacing” and is used to make an efficient watering grid for the sprinkler system. Using head-to-head spacing prevents watering gaps in the yard, which would lead to patches of grass that would not be fully watered – if watered at all. After mapping the sprinkler heads for the system, be sure to note how many heads were drawn on the plan and which spray arcs they were, so the proper parts can be purchased later on.

Designing zones may end up being one of the more complicated steps in designing a home sprinkler system. It is important to keep areas such as gardens and flowerbeds separate from the main lawn area when forming groups for zones, as they often require their own specially tailored series of sprinkler heads.

When designating the watering zones, it is important to take into account the amount of water each zone will be using. As a rule of thumb, zones using 3/4-inch supply pipe for the yard should not exceed 13 gpm and zones using 1-inch supply pipe should not exceed 18 gpm. This will require knowledge of the flow capacities of the sprinkler heads being used, so it is a good idea to consult manufacturer information for the sprinklers you will be using.

SELECTING CONTROL VALVES

Once the zones have been mapped out, the control valves need to be selected. Each zone will be controlled by an individual valve that opens and closes for the specific zone based on instructions from the controller or timer. The specific valves used will be determined by the water pressure and flow of the supply line as well as specific plumbing regulations for the city. Most cities will require that a valve be installed with a back-flow prevention device that is either installed before the valve manifold or is built in to the valve itself. The most commonly used valves and back-flow preventer for a residential system are a diaphragm valve paired with a pressure or atmospheric vacuum breaker.

It is also necessary to map out the location of the valves. In the case of residential systems, it is increasingly common for homeowners or contractors to group the valves together in a manifold that is close to the main supply line. The grouped valves are usually covered by what is known as a valve box, a protective plastic shield that keeps valves out of sight and prevents dirt from entering and damaging the valves.

MAPPING THE PIPES

After mapping out the sprinkler heads and control valves, mapping out the pipes is the next step. This is done on a zone by zone basis. Starting from the sprinkler head in the zone that is furthest from the valves, draw a line that leads back to the valve for the zone. In many cases, it will not be feasible to connect all the sprinkler heads through a single line of pipe. In zones where the sprinkler heads are arranged in a grid, for example, it is more efficient to set up a main line that branches off into smaller lines that provide an even water distribution and preventing loss of pressure. The placement of the main line for the valve is important as well. If the branches are too long, sprinklers at the end of the branch are going to be watering inefficiently due to the pressure loss. In zones that consist of a single line of sprinkler heads, such as with a line of shrubs, only one line of pipe is required.

Be sure to note the measurements for the lengths of pipe that have been mapped out, as well as noting the number and types of fittings (the points where pipes intersect or where heads will be installed) in the design. It is important to take into account the type of pipe that will be used for the system. Schedule 40 PVC or Polyethylene pipe are the most common choices for piping in a home sprinkler system.

By far, the most often used pipe in a sprinkler system is PVC. Polyvinyl chloride piping is inexpensive, very durable and very easy to assemble. PVC piping comes at differently rated strength levels, and some local codes may require a certain strength rating on pipe used for home irrigation and sprinkler systems. The strength of the PVC pipe will determine the pressure of the sprinkler system it can be installed in.

Polyethylene tubing is black, flexible pipe that is used primarily in areas with cold weather. It is becoming increasingly common as an alternative to PVC. PE pipe is more resistant to freezing than PVC pipe is and can be used in low-pressure systems. PE piping has a generally lower pressure threshold than PVC and is not suited for high-pressure water systems, however as most residential systems do not reach 100 psi, it is a completely viable alternative.

COLD-WEATHER DESIGN CONSIDERATION

In areas of cold climate, it will be required to winterize the system each year when the temperature drops in order to prevent damage to the system. This will require consideration of winterizing options such as drain valves or using a compression pump. If planning to use manual valves, be sure to mark the locations on the grid. They will need to be installed at all low points in the system as well as the ends of each zone branch. With automatic valves, they should be placed at 50-foot intervals and at every low point as well. If planning to use an air compressor for the system, it is generally a good idea to plan for an adapter right before the valves in the valve manifold that an air compressor can be attached to.

PURCHASING THE PARTS

Once you have a list of all the parts that will be needed, you can go to www.PlumbersStock.com with the parts list and purchase or order the parts you will need. Once the parts arrive, the installation process can begin.

In the Kitchen

INSTALLING A KITCHEN FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new kitchen sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a kitchen sink may seem daunting, they are actually some of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts and the proper assistance, the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new kitchen faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW KITCHEN FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. If a dishwasher is installed next to the sink, remove the hose that is attached to the drain by loosening the clamp that secures the hose to the drain pipe. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Bathroom Layout Guidelines

When planning a new layout for a bathroom, several factors have to be taken into account. Specific codes exist that regulate the placement of fixtures such as toilets, bathtubs, or sinks in the bathroom. These guidelines exist to ensure that the finished bathroom is both practically designed as well as safe. It is also important to know what categories bathroom layouts fall into. Below you will find information on the codes and regulations for different fixtures as well as categories of bathroom layouts.

Toilets

- No other fixture is allowed to be within 15 inches of either side of the toilet’s middle point.

- The space between a toilet and the fixture next to it must be at least 4 inches.

- There must be at least 24 inches of uninterrupted space in front of the toilet, and at least 36 inches between the toilet and the opposite wall.

*An exception to this rule: the path of an opening door may swing through the 24-inch space in front of the toilet.

- When separating the toilet from the rest of the bathroom, the enclosure must be at least 36 by 66 inches.

Sinks

- Sinks need a distance of 15 inches from the midpoint to a wall.

- If two sinks are installed, they must be at least 30 inches from the each other’s centerline.

- There must be at least 2 inches between a sink and another fixture.

- A sink cannot be placed on an opposing wall from a toilet unless there is at least 36 inches between the two fixtures. This does not apply if existing fixtures from an old bathroom are being replaced.

Showers

- Showers need at least 24 inches from the entrance of the shower to the nearest wall or fixture.

*30 inches is recommended for easier access.

- The shower stall itself must have an area of at least 34 by 34 inches, however at least 36 by 36 is recommended.

Bathtubs

- Bathtubs need at least 21 inches from the open side of the tub to a wall or fixture.

*30 inches is recommended for easier access.

- Most bathtubs are about 60 inches long by 32 inches wide, but can be as large as 72 inches by 48 inches.

- A corner bathtub is around 60 inches by 60 inches on average.

BATHROOM DESIGN TERMINOLOGY

-  Half bathroom consists of only a toilet and sink.

- Three quarters bathroom consists of a toilet, sink and shower, but does not have a bathtub.

- Full bathroom has a toilet, sink and combination bathtub/shower.

- One and a half bathroom has a toilet, sink, bathtub, and shower fixtures.

*Shower and bath fixtures are separate in this design

OTHER SPECIFICATIONS

Drainage & Vent Pipes

Drainage and ventilation pipes can be made out of PVC or ABS pipes. This is usually a matter of contractor preference. While PVC has a higher level of heat resistance from sunlight than ABS does, the ABS has a wider range of chemical resistance than PVC.

- Toilets need at least a 2- or 3-inch wide drainage pipe.

- As most toilet drains are at the 12-inch mark, drainage pipe should be installed 12 inches from the finished wall. (Roughly 13 inches from drywall.)

- Toilets need at least 2-inches of ventilation pipe.

- Sinks require a 2-inch wide or larger drain that will intersect with a 3-inch wide horizontal run.

- Sink drains should be installed at least 19 inches above the floor to be compatible with standard sink height.

- Sink vent pipes should be at least 2 inches in diameter.

- Bathtubs and showers require at least a 2-inch wide drain that intersects with a 3-inch wide horizontal run.

- The main stack is the central pipe all drain pipes connect to. These should be at least 3 inches in diameter.

Supply Pipes

Older supply lines may have been made from copper so if you find yourself replacing existing fixtures it may be required to purchase copper parts. If installing a new bathroom entirely, current commonly used parts are made from PEX pipe.

- Bathtub/shower supply lines are usually 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch in diameter, depending on the valve.

- Sinks and toilets tend to have a standard 1/2-inch diameter pipe.

- If installing a stub out for a sink, it should be 19 inches above the floor. If there are two sinks, the stub outs need to be at least 8-10 inches apart.

- If installing a stub out for a toilet, it should be at least 8 inches above the floor.

Tub and Shower Fittings

- Tub controls should be at least 26-28 inches above the floor.

- The tub spout should be at least 6-8 inches above the top edge of the tub.

- The shower head should be at least 74-76 inches above the floor.

- The flow/temperature control for the shower needs to be at least 46-48 inches above the floor.

CONCLUSION

It is important to remember that the figures above are general guidelines, but do not apply in all situations. It would be wise to research local plumbing codes for specific regulations on distances. Whether you are remodeling an old bathroom or designing a new one, it is important to be economical with the space available. It is equally important to find a balance between functionality and convenience, while adhering to local regulations.

Helpful Products to Protect from Cold and Flu

With cold and flu season in full force it is important to keep your home or business free of germs. We offer a variety of Moen electronic, hands-free lavatory faucets that not only help reduce germ spread, but also conserve water usage.

Moen M-Power 8301

The Moen M-POWER sensor-operated faucet comes in a sleek, tough Chrome finish.  This faucet is compliant with the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) for customer convenience.   The M-POWER faucet is vandal resistant and comes with a 5 year limited warranty.  This lavatory faucet has a sensor-operated electronic cartridge to help stop the spread of germs.  This particular hands-free faucet has a convenient 3 hole installation option and a center-set mount type.  The Moen 1801 is battery powered to help you save power.  This Moen M-POWER also has the Water Sense label, which means it meets the Environmental Protection Agency’s criteria for water efficiency.  This product will help you conserve money and water, while helping you to stay away from germs!

Moen M-Power 8305

The Moen M-POWER series has one regular version of the 8305 model, and the CA 8305 model that is compliant with California and Vermont product legislation.  Both models come in Moen’s classic, smooth, vandal resistant Chrome finish.  These 12” faucets have an easy to install 1 hole, single-mount option.  Like many other Moen products, both of these faucets are ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) compliant, in order to cater to all customers.  To help you keep your hands clean, this lavatory faucet is sensor operated by a battery.  These 8305 faucets are labeled with Water Sense to help you conserve money and water.  

Moen Destiny S899

The Moen Destiny™ is a faucet designed to keep germs at bay, through hands free technology.  This lavatory faucet comes with a durable, bright, cool grey chrome finish.  The Destiny™ also has a laminar stream to keep the water flow clear and quiet.  The Moen Destiny™ has a modern design, with an elegant high arc faucet and a metallic look. The single hole mount option is easy to install and repair. This faucet is ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) compliant, in order to cater to all customers. 

Along with the Moen hands free faucet we also carry Sloan motion activated soap dispensers.

The following product can also be used to dispense hand sanitizer for applications other than the restroom.

Sloan Sensor Operated Soap Dispenser

The Sloan sensor operated soap dispenser has a new kind of refill system.  This bag-like refill makes replacement easier and helps reduce the amount of soap wasted.   The Sloan soap dispenser can attach to any wall simply in minutes.  This particular soap dispenser is battery-driven and offers a replaceable battery option.  The automatic sensor option helps Sloan promote hygiene.  This convenient soap dispenser automatically delivers a pre-measured amount of soap during every use.  Each individual refill provides approximately 1000 uses.  This Sloan soap dispenser also comes with sight glass to indicate a low soap level.  

Toilet Maintenance and Repair

One of the pricier aspects of owning a home is the breakdown and replacement of home furnishings. By learning to maintain and repair a fixture, both time and money can be saved. This guide can provide a reference for checking, maintaining, and repairing the most common issues with a toilet.

DETERMINING THE SOURCE OF THE ISSUE

There are a number of different things that could cause an issue with a toilet. A water leak can occur at three different points on the toilet and can be identified by the kind of leak that is occurring. If there is water on the floor around the toilet, the tank bolts that connect the tank to the toilet bowl should be inspected. If the water leak only occurs after flushing, the gasket may need replacing or there may be a gap in the wax seal underneath the toilet, the leak may also be located at the valve where the water supply meets the tank. If there isn't any water on the floor, that opens up a number of other possibilities. The issue may be a result of a malfunctioning or incorrectly adjusted fill valve. It may also be an issue with the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank.

THE FILL VALVE

One of the key components of a working toilet is the fill valve, which is the column of mechanisms inside the toilet tank that controls the water level and tank refill. The mechanism at the top of the column is the water valve that is connected to an overflow tube. If the water level in the tank is close to the top of the overflow tube, it may be necessary to lower the water level in the tank. This can be done by adjusting the water valve or the float that is connected to it. By lowering the float, less water can fill the tank before the mechanism is triggered.

If the water level is corrected, but the tank valve still runs, it may be a malfunctioning or broken valve. Unfortunately, this will require the entire valve to be replaced. Attempting to repair the valve may result in further damage, so it is generally recommended to pick up a new valve. Toilet fill valves are generally inexpensive and should not present too much of an issue to replace.

Once a new fill valve has been purchased, the replacement process can begin. The first step is to shut off the water supply valve connected to the back of the toilet. Remove the toilet tank lid and carefully set it aside. Flush the toilet to clear the water from the tank, making it possible to remove the old part and insert the new valve. Disconnect the tubing that runs from the valve to the overflow tube and remove the nut underneath the tank that fastens the valve to the tank. Remove the old valve and set it aside. Using a damp rag, clean the area around the hole where the valve rests. Place a rubber washer on the new valve and ease it into tank, slipping the end of it through the valve hole. Slip another washer over the other end of the valve, then thread on the nut. Secure the valve in place, but do not over-tighten it, as it may damage the tank. Once the new valve is in place, adjust the float mechanism so that the water level does not exceed the overflow tube. Once that is set, reactivate the water supply to the tank and ensure that it is being filled. Once the tank is filled, check the underside for leaking. If there are no leaks, flush the toilet and observe the complete refill cycle to ensure it fills correctly. If all is well, place the tank lid back on.

THE FLAPPER VALVE

The flapper valve is the mechanism at the bottom of the tank that controls whether or not water flows through the tank and into the bowl. Whenever the tank is flushed, a chain from the handle will pull the flapper open, allowing water to rush through the hole at the bottom. The seal of the flapper on the drain must be tight or else leakage may occur. The valve needs to be both clean and smooth to have a tight seal with the drain. If a buildup of sediments or minerals occurs, it may damage or warp the flapper. The same applies to the tank drain.

In order to check the flapper valve and tank drain, the earlier methods for emptying the tank will be required. Remove the lid, shut off the water valve and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Check the flapper and the drain for any build-ups and attempt to clean them with a damp rag. If the flapper is warped or in any other way damaged, it is necessary to replace it. If a replaced flapper is still having issues with forming a full seal, the tank drain may also need to be replaced.

Replacing the flapper valve is a fairly simple procedure but it varies based on the design of the valve. The most common design is one that attaches to the overflow tube via a pair of ears on the tube. Detach the arms of the flapper from the ear nubs on the tube and disconnect the chain that goes to the toilet handle. Attach the new flapper to the ears on the tube and the chain to the top of the flapper. Another design has the flapper slide a ring around the overflow tube. This is also a simple replacement that only requires you to slide off the old flapper and slide on the new one. A less common design is a disk flapper, which are no longer frequently used in toilets. A disk sits on the drain valve and is lifted by a single thin piece of metal connected to the disk. These disks are connected either by threading onto the metal rod or just by popping on or off, so they are easy to replace.

THE TOILET FLUSH HANDLE AND CHAIN

Although not directly related to water leakage, a damaged flush handle can lead to issues with the flapper valve not working properly. A loose handle will not fully open the flapper valve, which limits the rate at which water enters the bowl.

Replacing a toilet handle is a simple job. Remove the top of the toilet tank and set it aside. Inside the tank, there should be a nut securing the handle to the tank as well as a chain running from the handle to the top of the flapper valve. Disconnect the chain and begin to un-thread the bolt. This may require the use of pliers. Once the nut is removed, slide the old handle out through the opening and replace it with the new handle. Re-thread the bolt onto the new handle and attach the chain from the flapper to the handle. There should be only a little slack in the chain if properly installed.

If the handle is not the cause of the problem, it may very well be the chain linked from the handle to the flapper. If there is not enough slack, the flapper will be leaking water because it cannot form a complete seal with the drain. Too much chain and the flapper won’t open completely whenever the toilet is flushed. Worse yet, the chain may slide under the flapper valve, preventing it from closing at all. It is important to have a small amount of slack on the chain, and so it should be adjusted if needed. This can be accomplished by simply adding or removing links to or from the chain.

THE TANK BOLTS AND GASKET

Two part toilets use nuts, bolts and rubber washers to secure the tank to the back section of the toilet. If over time the washers deteriorate or the bolt is damaged, the seal will be broken and water will begin to leak out of the bottom of the tank. This may also occur if the gasket between the two has deteriorated. If it is determined that the connection between the tank and the bowl has been broken, the connection will need to be replaced.

The replacement method is usually fairly simple. Shut off the water supply and flush the tank, as with most situations. Attempt to loosen the nuts underneath the tank, using pliers if needed. If a bolt is loose, it may be necessary to hold the bolt in place while loosening and un-threading the nut. If a nut and bolt are corroded or fused, it will likely be required to cut the bolt. This is a risky maneuver, as a wrong move may result in the damage of the porcelain and will require the entire toilet to be replaced. If the bolt must be cut, use a small hacksaw and carefully cut through the material, taking care not to damage the bowl or tank.

Once the bolts are removed, lift the tank off of the bowl section and replace the washers or spacers at the holes of the bowl. Remove the o-ring gasket and clean any residue using a damp rag. Place the new gasket over the fitting, ensuring it is installed with a tight fit. Place the tank back onto the bowl, lining up the holes for the bolt to go through. Inside the tank, place a washer at each hole and slip the bolt through. On the underside of the tank, slip a washer over the bolt and then begin threading on the new nut. Hand tighten it as much as possible, and then lightly tighten it with pliers. Be careful not to exert too much force at this point, as you again run the risk of damaging the toilet.

THE WAX SEAL

Possibly the most time-consuming and labor-intensive repair job short of outright replacing the toilet is replacing a broken wax seal underneath the toilet bowl. The bowl is connected to a flange on the ground that provides a transition for the water from the bowl to the pipes underneath. A wax ring is necessary to keep the point where the toilet attaches to the flange sealed. Over time, the wax may pull away from the bowl, allowing water to leak out through the bottom of the toilet whenever it is flushed.

Replacing the wax seal takes considerable time and effort because both the tank and bowl must be emptied and removed. First, shut off the water supply and flush the tank. Loosen and remove the nut from the bolts and then unthread the water supply connector from the back of the tank before lifting the tank off of the bowl. Carefully set aside the tank, and then remove the bolt covers from either side of the base of the bowl. Loosen and remove the nuts fastened to the bolts here, then lift the toilet off of the flange. As there is still water in the u-trap of the toilet, expect water to spill out when moving it. Clean the old wax from the toilet and the flange and ready a new wax ring. Tilting the bowl on its side, firmly press the new wax ring onto the bottom of the toilet. Place the toilet bowl back onto the flange and push down to form a tight seal to the flange. In many cases, plumbing code requires the toilet bowl to be sealed to the floor, either with caulk or grout. If the temperature is less than 70 degrees, extra care will be required when attempting to form a seal with the wax ring. Cold temperatures make it difficult for the wax to mold along the flange and form a tight seal. Thread the nuts back onto the flange bolts and replace the bolt caps. Reattach the tank to the bowl, and the water supply to the tank. Turn the water supply back on, let the tank fill and then perform a test flush to see if water leaks through the bottom of the bowl. If there is no water leakage, the problem has been solved.

A NOTE ON HANDLING PORCELAIN

The porcelain toilets are made of is both very heavy and very delicate. If the repair requires the removal of the tank or the bowl, take care when moving them and set them on a towel, cardboard or newspaper to prevent from scratching the floor. When tightening nuts onto the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor and the tank to the bowl, be careful not to over-tighten them if using tools. Over-tightening them will likely cause crack in the porcelain, requiring the entire toilet to be replaced.