One of
the pricier aspects of owning a home is the breakdown and replacement of home
furnishings. By learning to
maintain and repair a fixture, both time and money
can be saved. This guide can provide a reference for checking, maintaining, and
repairing the most common issues with a toilet.
DETERMINING THE
SOURCE OF THE ISSUE
There
are a number of different things that could cause an issue with a toilet. A
water leak can occur at three different points on the toilet and can be
identified by the kind of leak that is occurring. If there is water on the
floor around the toilet, the tank bolts that connect the tank to the toilet
bowl should be inspected. If the water leak only occurs after flushing, the
gasket may need replacing or there may be a gap in the wax seal underneath the
toilet, the leak may also be located at the valve where the water supply meets
the tank. If there isn't any water on the floor, that opens up a number of
other possibilities. The issue may be a result of a malfunctioning or incorrectly
adjusted fill valve. It may also be an issue with the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank.
THE FILL VALVE
One of the key components of a working toilet is the fill valve, which is the column of mechanisms inside the toilet tank that controls the water level
and tank refill. The mechanism at the top of the column is the water valve that
is connected to an overflow tube. If the water level in the tank is close to
the top of the overflow tube, it may be necessary to lower the water level in
the tank. This can be done by adjusting the water valve or the float that is
connected to it. By lowering the float, less water can fill the tank before the
mechanism is triggered.
If the
water level is corrected, but the tank valve still runs, it may be a
malfunctioning or broken valve. Unfortunately, this will require the entire
valve to be replaced. Attempting to repair the valve may result in further
damage, so it is generally recommended to pick up a new valve.
Toilet fill valves are generally inexpensive and should not present too much of an issue to
replace.
Once a
new fill valve has been purchased, the replacement process can begin. The first
step is to shut off the water supply valve connected to the back of the toilet.
Remove the toilet tank lid and carefully set it aside. Flush the toilet to
clear the water from the tank, making it possible to remove the old part and
insert the new valve. Disconnect the tubing that runs from the valve to the
overflow tube and remove the nut underneath the tank that fastens the valve to
the tank. Remove the old valve and set it aside. Using a damp rag, clean the
area around the hole where the valve rests. Place a rubber washer on the new
valve and ease it into tank, slipping the end of it through the valve hole. Slip
another washer over the other end of the valve, then thread on the nut. Secure
the valve in place, but do not over-tighten it, as it may damage the tank. Once
the new valve is in place, adjust the float mechanism so that the water level
does not exceed the overflow tube. Once that is set, reactivate the water
supply to the tank and ensure that it is being filled. Once the tank is filled,
check the underside for leaking. If there are no leaks, flush the toilet and
observe the complete refill cycle to ensure it fills correctly. If all is well,
place the tank lid back on.
THE FLAPPER VALVE
The
flapper valve is the mechanism at the bottom of the
tank that controls whether or not water flows through the tank and into the
bowl. Whenever the tank is flushed, a chain from the handle will pull the
flapper open, allowing water to rush through the hole at the bottom. The seal
of the flapper on the drain must be tight or else leakage may occur. The valve
needs to be both clean and smooth to have a tight seal with the drain. If a
buildup of sediments or minerals occurs, it may damage or warp the flapper. The
same applies to the tank drain.
In
order to check the flapper valve and tank drain, the earlier methods for
emptying the tank will be required. Remove the lid, shut off the water valve
and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Check the flapper and the drain for any
build-ups and attempt to clean them with a damp rag. If the flapper is warped or
in any other way damaged, it is necessary to replace it. If a replaced flapper
is still having issues with forming a full seal, the tank drain may also need
to be replaced.
Replacing
the flapper valve is a fairly simple procedure but it varies based on the
design of the valve. The most common design is one that attaches to the
overflow tube via a pair of ears on the tube. Detach the arms of the flapper
from the ear nubs on the tube and disconnect the chain that goes to the toilet
handle. Attach the new flapper to the ears on the tube and the chain to the top
of the flapper. Another design has the flapper slide a ring around the overflow
tube. This is also a simple replacement that only requires you to slide off the old
flapper and slide on the new one. A less common design is a disk flapper, which are no longer frequently used in toilets. A disk sits on the drain valve
and is lifted by a single thin piece of metal connected to the disk. These
disks are connected either by threading onto the metal rod or just by popping
on or off, so they are easy to replace.
THE TOILET FLUSH
HANDLE AND CHAIN
Although not directly related
to water leakage, a damaged flush handle can lead to issues with the flapper
valve not working properly. A loose handle will not fully open the flapper
valve, which limits the rate at which water enters the bowl.
Replacing
a
toilet handle is a simple job. Remove the top of the toilet tank and set it
aside. Inside the tank, there should be a nut securing the handle to the tank
as well as a chain running from the handle to the top of the flapper valve.
Disconnect the chain and begin to un-thread the bolt. This may require the use
of pliers. Once the nut is removed, slide the old handle out through the
opening and replace it with the new handle. Re-thread the bolt onto the new
handle and attach the chain from the flapper to the handle. There should be only
a little slack in the chain if properly installed.
If the
handle is not the cause of the problem, it may very well be the chain linked
from the handle to the flapper. If there is not enough slack, the flapper will
be leaking water because it cannot form a complete seal with the drain. Too
much chain and the flapper won’t open completely whenever the toilet is
flushed. Worse yet, the chain may slide under the flapper valve, preventing it
from closing at all. It is important to have a small amount of slack on the
chain, and so it should be adjusted if needed. This can be accomplished by
simply adding or removing links to or from the chain.
THE TANK BOLTS AND
GASKET
Two
part toilets use nuts, bolts and rubber washers to secure the tank to the back section
of the toilet. If over time the washers deteriorate or the bolt is damaged, the
seal will be broken and water will begin to leak out of the bottom of the tank.
This may also occur if the gasket between the two has deteriorated. If it is
determined that the connection between the tank and the bowl has been broken,
the connection will need to be replaced.
The
replacement method is usually fairly simple. Shut off the water supply and
flush the tank, as with most situations. Attempt to loosen the nuts underneath the
tank, using pliers if needed. If a bolt is loose, it may be necessary to hold
the bolt in place while loosening and un-threading the nut. If a nut and bolt
are corroded or fused, it will likely be required to cut the bolt. This is a
risky maneuver, as a wrong move may result in the damage of the porcelain and
will require the entire toilet to be replaced. If the bolt must be cut, use a
small
hacksaw and carefully cut through the material, taking care not to damage
the bowl or tank.
Once
the bolts are removed, lift the tank off of the bowl section and replace the
washers or spacers at the holes of the bowl. Remove the o-ring gasket and clean
any residue using a damp rag. Place the new gasket over the fitting, ensuring
it is installed with a tight fit. Place the tank back onto the bowl, lining up
the holes for the bolt to go through. Inside the tank, place a washer at each
hole and slip the bolt through. On the underside of the tank, slip a washer
over the bolt and then begin threading on the new nut. Hand tighten it as much
as possible, and then lightly tighten it with pliers. Be careful not to exert
too much force at this point, as you again run the risk of damaging the toilet.
THE WAX SEAL
Possibly the most
time-consuming and labor-intensive repair job short of outright replacing the
toilet is replacing a broken wax seal underneath the toilet bowl. The bowl is
connected to a flange on the ground that provides a transition for the water
from the bowl to the pipes underneath. A wax ring is necessary to keep the point
where the toilet attaches to the flange sealed. Over time, the wax may pull
away from the bowl, allowing water to leak out through the bottom of the toilet
whenever it is flushed.
Replacing
the wax seal takes considerable time and effort because both the tank and bowl
must be emptied and removed. First, shut off the water supply and flush the
tank. Loosen and remove the nut from the bolts and then unthread the water
supply connector from the back of the tank before lifting the tank off of the
bowl. Carefully set aside the tank, and then remove the bolt covers from either
side of the base of the bowl. Loosen and remove the nuts fastened to the bolts
here, then lift the toilet off of the flange. As there is still water in the
u-trap of the toilet, expect water to spill out when moving it. Clean the old
wax from the toilet and the flange and ready a new wax ring. Tilting the bowl
on its side, firmly press the new wax ring onto the bottom of the toilet. Place
the toilet bowl back onto the flange and push down to form a tight seal to the
flange. In many cases, plumbing code requires the toilet bowl to be sealed to
the floor, either with caulk or grout. If the temperature is less than 70
degrees, extra care will be required when attempting to form a seal with the
wax ring. Cold temperatures make it difficult for the wax to mold along the
flange and form a tight seal. Thread the nuts back onto the flange bolts and
replace the bolt caps. Reattach the tank to the bowl, and the water supply to the
tank. Turn the water supply back on, let the tank fill and then perform a test
flush to see if water leaks through the bottom of the bowl. If there is no
water leakage, the problem has been solved.
A NOTE ON HANDLING PORCELAIN
The porcelain toilets are made of is both very heavy and very delicate. If the repair requires the removal of the tank or the bowl, take care when moving them and set them on a towel, cardboard or newspaper to prevent from scratching the floor. When tightening nuts onto the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor and the tank to the bowl, be careful not to over-tighten them if using tools. Over-tightening them will likely cause crack in the porcelain, requiring the
entire toilet to be replaced.
