Toilet Maintenance and Repair

One of the pricier aspects of owning a home is the breakdown and replacement of home furnishings. By learning to maintain and repair a fixture, both time and money can be saved. This guide can provide a reference for checking, maintaining, and repairing the most common issues with a toilet.

DETERMINING THE SOURCE OF THE ISSUE

There are a number of different things that could cause an issue with a toilet. A water leak can occur at three different points on the toilet and can be identified by the kind of leak that is occurring. If there is water on the floor around the toilet, the tank bolts that connect the tank to the toilet bowl should be inspected. If the water leak only occurs after flushing, the gasket may need replacing or there may be a gap in the wax seal underneath the toilet, the leak may also be located at the valve where the water supply meets the tank. If there isn't any water on the floor, that opens up a number of other possibilities. The issue may be a result of a malfunctioning or incorrectly adjusted fill valve. It may also be an issue with the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank.

THE FILL VALVE

One of the key components of a working toilet is the fill valve, which is the column of mechanisms inside the toilet tank that controls the water level and tank refill. The mechanism at the top of the column is the water valve that is connected to an overflow tube. If the water level in the tank is close to the top of the overflow tube, it may be necessary to lower the water level in the tank. This can be done by adjusting the water valve or the float that is connected to it. By lowering the float, less water can fill the tank before the mechanism is triggered.

If the water level is corrected, but the tank valve still runs, it may be a malfunctioning or broken valve. Unfortunately, this will require the entire valve to be replaced. Attempting to repair the valve may result in further damage, so it is generally recommended to pick up a new valve. Toilet fill valves are generally inexpensive and should not present too much of an issue to replace.

Once a new fill valve has been purchased, the replacement process can begin. The first step is to shut off the water supply valve connected to the back of the toilet. Remove the toilet tank lid and carefully set it aside. Flush the toilet to clear the water from the tank, making it possible to remove the old part and insert the new valve. Disconnect the tubing that runs from the valve to the overflow tube and remove the nut underneath the tank that fastens the valve to the tank. Remove the old valve and set it aside. Using a damp rag, clean the area around the hole where the valve rests. Place a rubber washer on the new valve and ease it into tank, slipping the end of it through the valve hole. Slip another washer over the other end of the valve, then thread on the nut. Secure the valve in place, but do not over-tighten it, as it may damage the tank. Once the new valve is in place, adjust the float mechanism so that the water level does not exceed the overflow tube. Once that is set, reactivate the water supply to the tank and ensure that it is being filled. Once the tank is filled, check the underside for leaking. If there are no leaks, flush the toilet and observe the complete refill cycle to ensure it fills correctly. If all is well, place the tank lid back on.

THE FLAPPER VALVE

The flapper valve is the mechanism at the bottom of the tank that controls whether or not water flows through the tank and into the bowl. Whenever the tank is flushed, a chain from the handle will pull the flapper open, allowing water to rush through the hole at the bottom. The seal of the flapper on the drain must be tight or else leakage may occur. The valve needs to be both clean and smooth to have a tight seal with the drain. If a buildup of sediments or minerals occurs, it may damage or warp the flapper. The same applies to the tank drain.

In order to check the flapper valve and tank drain, the earlier methods for emptying the tank will be required. Remove the lid, shut off the water valve and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Check the flapper and the drain for any build-ups and attempt to clean them with a damp rag. If the flapper is warped or in any other way damaged, it is necessary to replace it. If a replaced flapper is still having issues with forming a full seal, the tank drain may also need to be replaced.

Replacing the flapper valve is a fairly simple procedure but it varies based on the design of the valve. The most common design is one that attaches to the overflow tube via a pair of ears on the tube. Detach the arms of the flapper from the ear nubs on the tube and disconnect the chain that goes to the toilet handle. Attach the new flapper to the ears on the tube and the chain to the top of the flapper. Another design has the flapper slide a ring around the overflow tube. This is also a simple replacement that only requires you to slide off the old flapper and slide on the new one. A less common design is a disk flapper, which are no longer frequently used in toilets. A disk sits on the drain valve and is lifted by a single thin piece of metal connected to the disk. These disks are connected either by threading onto the metal rod or just by popping on or off, so they are easy to replace.

THE TOILET FLUSH HANDLE AND CHAIN

Although not directly related to water leakage, a damaged flush handle can lead to issues with the flapper valve not working properly. A loose handle will not fully open the flapper valve, which limits the rate at which water enters the bowl.

Replacing a toilet handle is a simple job. Remove the top of the toilet tank and set it aside. Inside the tank, there should be a nut securing the handle to the tank as well as a chain running from the handle to the top of the flapper valve. Disconnect the chain and begin to un-thread the bolt. This may require the use of pliers. Once the nut is removed, slide the old handle out through the opening and replace it with the new handle. Re-thread the bolt onto the new handle and attach the chain from the flapper to the handle. There should be only a little slack in the chain if properly installed.

If the handle is not the cause of the problem, it may very well be the chain linked from the handle to the flapper. If there is not enough slack, the flapper will be leaking water because it cannot form a complete seal with the drain. Too much chain and the flapper won’t open completely whenever the toilet is flushed. Worse yet, the chain may slide under the flapper valve, preventing it from closing at all. It is important to have a small amount of slack on the chain, and so it should be adjusted if needed. This can be accomplished by simply adding or removing links to or from the chain.

THE TANK BOLTS AND GASKET

Two part toilets use nuts, bolts and rubber washers to secure the tank to the back section of the toilet. If over time the washers deteriorate or the bolt is damaged, the seal will be broken and water will begin to leak out of the bottom of the tank. This may also occur if the gasket between the two has deteriorated. If it is determined that the connection between the tank and the bowl has been broken, the connection will need to be replaced.

The replacement method is usually fairly simple. Shut off the water supply and flush the tank, as with most situations. Attempt to loosen the nuts underneath the tank, using pliers if needed. If a bolt is loose, it may be necessary to hold the bolt in place while loosening and un-threading the nut. If a nut and bolt are corroded or fused, it will likely be required to cut the bolt. This is a risky maneuver, as a wrong move may result in the damage of the porcelain and will require the entire toilet to be replaced. If the bolt must be cut, use a small hacksaw and carefully cut through the material, taking care not to damage the bowl or tank.

Once the bolts are removed, lift the tank off of the bowl section and replace the washers or spacers at the holes of the bowl. Remove the o-ring gasket and clean any residue using a damp rag. Place the new gasket over the fitting, ensuring it is installed with a tight fit. Place the tank back onto the bowl, lining up the holes for the bolt to go through. Inside the tank, place a washer at each hole and slip the bolt through. On the underside of the tank, slip a washer over the bolt and then begin threading on the new nut. Hand tighten it as much as possible, and then lightly tighten it with pliers. Be careful not to exert too much force at this point, as you again run the risk of damaging the toilet.

THE WAX SEAL

Possibly the most time-consuming and labor-intensive repair job short of outright replacing the toilet is replacing a broken wax seal underneath the toilet bowl. The bowl is connected to a flange on the ground that provides a transition for the water from the bowl to the pipes underneath. A wax ring is necessary to keep the point where the toilet attaches to the flange sealed. Over time, the wax may pull away from the bowl, allowing water to leak out through the bottom of the toilet whenever it is flushed.

Replacing the wax seal takes considerable time and effort because both the tank and bowl must be emptied and removed. First, shut off the water supply and flush the tank. Loosen and remove the nut from the bolts and then unthread the water supply connector from the back of the tank before lifting the tank off of the bowl. Carefully set aside the tank, and then remove the bolt covers from either side of the base of the bowl. Loosen and remove the nuts fastened to the bolts here, then lift the toilet off of the flange. As there is still water in the u-trap of the toilet, expect water to spill out when moving it. Clean the old wax from the toilet and the flange and ready a new wax ring. Tilting the bowl on its side, firmly press the new wax ring onto the bottom of the toilet. Place the toilet bowl back onto the flange and push down to form a tight seal to the flange. In many cases, plumbing code requires the toilet bowl to be sealed to the floor, either with caulk or grout. If the temperature is less than 70 degrees, extra care will be required when attempting to form a seal with the wax ring. Cold temperatures make it difficult for the wax to mold along the flange and form a tight seal. Thread the nuts back onto the flange bolts and replace the bolt caps. Reattach the tank to the bowl, and the water supply to the tank. Turn the water supply back on, let the tank fill and then perform a test flush to see if water leaks through the bottom of the bowl. If there is no water leakage, the problem has been solved.

A NOTE ON HANDLING PORCELAIN

The porcelain toilets are made of is both very heavy and very delicate. If the repair requires the removal of the tank or the bowl, take care when moving them and set them on a towel, cardboard or newspaper to prevent from scratching the floor. When tightening nuts onto the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor and the tank to the bowl, be careful not to over-tighten them if using tools. Over-tightening them will likely cause crack in the porcelain, requiring the entire toilet to be replaced.