Summer is Here!

Are you running your A/C over time now that Summer has officially arrived? If so, check out our tips and tricks for installing a condensate pump for your A/C unit!

LITTLE GIANT CONDENSATE PUMPS

Condensate pumps are installed in fixtures such as refrigerators and air conditioners to remove buildups of condensation. Condensation occurs when water vapor comes into contact with the cooled surfaces in the fixture and begins converting to water. The condensate will usually drip down into a condensate pan that carries the water to an outside drain. In the event that the nearest drain is a far enough away from the fixture, condensate pumps are used to pump the water through piping to a plumbing drain stack or an outside drain. Liquid from the condensate pan will drain into the pump, pushing up a float as the water level rises. When the water level rises enough, the float will trigger a switch that activates the impeller at the bottom of the pump, drawing the water through and pushing it into the pipe system. Some models have a failsafe switch near the top of the pump in the event that the first switch doesn’t react. If the floater makes it to the higher switch, it sends a signal to deactivate the fixture, which prevents from the condensate from spilling over and into the inner workings of the fixture.

Franklin Electric offers a line of professional-grade Little Giant branded condensate pumps that are designed specifically for dealing with condensate buildup in fixtures. Below are a listing of the various models and their individual features.

LARGE RESERVOIR (1 GALLON) PUMPS

The largest of the available Little Giant condensate pumps are the 1-gallon reservoir pumps. These pumps are available in three general unit types, with greater variations in each of the individual models. Each model is a vertical-type pump unit with a leak- and rust-proof ABS tank. Each model is UL/CSA listed and is protected from thermal overload. Certain versions include a built in failsafe switch. Below are specifics on the individual series.

·         VCL-14 SERIES (200 gallons per hour, 1/50 horsepower, safety switch by default, 115 volts, discharge through 3/8-inch barbed adapter)

·         VCL-24ULS SERIES (270 gph, 1/18 horsepower motor, safety switch model available, 115 or 230 volt models available, discharge through 1/4-inch FNPT or 3/8-inch O.D. barbed adapter)

·         VCL-45 SERIES (450 gph, 1/5 horsepower motor, safety switch model available, 115 or 230 volt models available, discharge through 3/8-inch O.D. copper tube discharge)

LOW PROFILE (1/3 GALLON) PUMPS

In areas where space conservation is important or there is enough space in the fixture to fit a small pump, the low profile 1/3-gallon pumps can be utilized efficiently. These are best suited for high-efficiency gas furnace condensate. These pumps are available in two variations, with the key difference being the voltage. While both pumps are capable of sustaining 80 gallons per hour and come standard with a safety switch and a built-in check valve, one model is capable of 230 volts while the other only 115 volts. Both models are built with the vertical pump design and have a leak- and rust-proof ABS tank. They are also UL/CSA listed and are protected from thermal overload.

MEDIUM RESERVOIR (1/2 GALLON) PUMPS

If a full gallon reservoir isn’t needed for the fixture, Little Giant also has half-gallon reservoir pumps. These pumps are scaled down in their flow capacity as well, with the two series being available with 65 or 80 gph rates. Each pump is fitted with a half-gallon leak- and rust-proof ABS tank and the motor is protected from thermal overload. Like the low profile pumps, these are suitable for handling high-efficiency, gas-furnace condensate as well as A/C condensate. The pumps are built standard with a 3/8-inch barbed discharge port. All pumps are UL/CSA listed. Here are specifics on the individual models and variations.

·         VCMA-15 SERIES (65 gallons per hour, 1/50 horsepower motor, 115 volts, variations available with either safety switch, tubing or both)

·         VCMA-20 SERIES (80 gph, 1/30 horsepower motor, models available with either 115 or 230 volt capacity, variations available with either safety switch, tubing or both)

MEDIUM RESERVOIR (NXTGEN) PUMPS

One of the newer models of the medium capacity pumps that Little Giant has produced; the NXTGen pumps have improved flow rates in comparison to the medium reservoir pumps. There are a number of variations of the single NXTGen model pump which add additional functionality to the system. Depending on the voltage selected for the model, these pumps can sustain a flow of either 78 or 84 gallons per hour. These pumps utilize a patent-pending cooling system design and the motors are protected from thermal overload. Each pump is cCSAus listed, which qualifies it both for UL and CSA standards. The 78-gph-rate variations are capable of 230 volts and are available both in the standard model and with the safety switch variation. The 84 gph models are more prevalent, clocking in at 115 volt capacity and with variations available that include the safety switch, a length of drain tubing and an anti-sweat sleeve designed to compensate for condensate buildup on the exterior of the tank.

MINI-SPLIT/DUCTLESS – EC SERIES

For mini-split or ductless air conditioning units, Little Giant's EC-400 condensate pump is built to assist with removal of condensate buildup in these smaller units. The pump is attached to the condensate tray inside the part of the cooling unit that is installed indoors. These work slightly differently than standard condensate removal pumps, as water is needed to be suctioned into the reservoir from the condensate tray and then expelled through the pump when the reservoir reaches a certain level. The pumps are self-priming and are built to operate silently. These pumps are only capable of a simple 2.5 gallons per hour and come in two variations of voltage – 115 and 230. They come standard with an overflow safety switch that will shut down the cooling unit if it is in danger of overflowing.

SHALLOW PAN CONDENSATE PUMPS

In large or industrial-strength air conditioning units, the condensate pans are large enough that specifically designed pumps can simply be installed in the pan and they will be able to remove the condensate directly from the pan instead of having it drain into a reservoir. There are three different models of shallow pan condensate pumps offered by Little Giant, the 1- 2- and 3-ABS model shallow pan pumps. These pumps each have unique designs and capabilities which will be listed below.

·        1-ABS SERIES – This series of pump is designed for in-pan placement and condensate removal. The pump comes standard with a 1/150-horsepower oil-filled motor that is permanently lubricated and designed for maximum heat dissipation. The pump activates whenever the condensate level reaches a certain preset point. Similarly, the system will engage an automatic shut-off when the condensate depletes to a certain level. The pump was designed with high efficiency, small size and quiet running in mind, while still being able to maintain a constant flow rate of 205 gallons per hour. The only variations in this particular kind of pump are the voltage capacities, with specific models available with 115 or 230 volt capacity.

·         2-ABS SERIES – As with the 1-ABS, this pump was designed for in-pan placement. It has a 1/40-horsepower oil-filled motor that is capable of an output of 300 gallons per hour. Functioning similarly to the previous pump, it activates and deactivates at pre-set levels. This model of pump can be installed with a half-gallon ABS tank if needed. As with the 1-ABS, there are 115- or 230-volt variants.

·         3-ABS SERIES – The highest capacity pump available from Little Giant, the 3-ABS shallow pan condensate removal pump comes standard with a 1/12-horsepower motor and an epoxy-coated aluminum motor cover. It also has a galvanized steel tank cover and a 1-gallon tank capacity. The pump is capable of a constant output rate of 310 gallons per hour and will activate and deactivate automatically as is the standard for the ABS series. As with the previous two ABS models, 115- and 230-volt variants are available.

Bathroom Sink Faucet Installation

INSTALLING A BATHROOM SINK FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new bathroom sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a bathroom sink may seem daunting, doing so is actually one of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts, and the proper assistance - the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new bathroom faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat-head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty, and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW BATHROOM SINK FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

The key difference between the pipes for the bathroom and kitchen sinks is the drainage pipes. With kitchen drains, the pipes are usually PVC. Depending on the design of the sink – i.e. if the pipes are exposed – the pipes used are usually chrome-plated copper. If the pipes are covered by the sink pedestal or a cabinet, it is recommended to use PVC plastic pipes because of their durability.

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock-nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock-nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.