Installing a Bathroom Faucet & Drain

Now that you've learned how to install a tub or shower trim (please see previous post) we can move on the the install of a bathroom faucet and drain. The installation for this product is quite easy, should only take you the bulk of a Saturday afternoon!

INSTALLING A BATHROOM FAUCET & DRAIN

While the prospect of installing a new bathroom sink faucet and/or replacing the drainage pipes of a bathroom sink may seem daunting, they are actually some of the simplest home improvement projects to undertake. With the right tools, parts and the proper assistance, the job becomes fairly simple. This guide should provide assistance with the installation of a new bathroom faucet and drains. It is recommended to have a number of tools available for these jobs, including but not limited to a basin wrench, adjustable wrench, channel lock pliers, Phillips & flat-head screwdrivers, a nut driver, plumber’s putty and a putty knife.

INSTALLING A NEW BATHROOM FAUCET

The first step is to shut off the water supply to the sink and then drain the water in the faucet and pipes by turning the faucet on. Once the pressure is relieved and any remaining water has passed through, disconnect the faucet from the water supply lines. This can be done with an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench if the space underneath the sink is too small to use a standard wrench. Once the water supply lines have been disconnected, loosen and remove the retaining nuts that fasten the faucet to the sink body. The faucet should be easily removable at this point. Lift the faucet out of the sink and take note of the available holes in the sink body. This is to ensure that the faucet bought for replacement matches up with the available slots in the sink body. Check the water supply lines for wear and corrosion, it may warrant a replacement if they are damaged.

Once a suitable replacement has been found, take the replacement faucet to the sink and ensure that it matches up correctly with the sink body. If the faucet fits, use the putty knife to scrape off any old plumber’s putty or other buildup before the faucet is placed. Once the surface is cleaned, place a new ring of plumber’s putty around the edges of the area where the new faucet will be placed. If the new faucet came with a gasket, set that down first. Place the new faucet in the sink and press down firmly. Go underneath the sink and screw on the retaining nuts on the bottom of the faucet water pipes. If replacement supply lines were bought, connect them to the water supply and their respective faucet lines. If the faucet came with individual handles not connected to the main faucet body, attach and install them at this point. When everything has been properly tightened and connected, turn the water lines back on and turn the faucet on to check for leaks.

INSTALLING A NEW SINK DRAIN

The key difference between the pipes for the bathroom and kitchen sinks is the drainage pipes. With kitchen drains, the pipes are usually PVC. Depending on the design of the sink – i.e. if the pipes are exposed – the pipes used are usually chrome-plated copper. If the pipes are covered by the sink pedestal or a cabinet, it is recommended to use PVC plastic pipes because of their durability.

If the sink drain pipes have aged and are starting to deteriorate, they will need to be replaced so that they do not continually leak. It is a good idea to purchase the replacement parts prior to disassembling the drain system. In many cases, the replacement parts that will be needed are the sink basket strainers, sink drain tailpiece, trap adapter and the PVC p-trap.

The first step is to remove the old drain parts. This can be done easiest by removing the p-trap first. It is a good idea to place either a towel or bucket underneath the p-trap when it is being disconnected so as to catch any water that may spill out when the trap is removed. Once the p-trap has been removed, remove the drain tailpipe. Unscrew the retaining nut on the basket strainer and push upwards to dislodge it. Remove the old strainer and clear out any old plumber’s putty at the bottom of the sink.

At this point, the new installation process can begin. Form a ring with plumber’s putty that will fit the underside of the strainer rim and press firmly. Once that is done, put the strainer in the drain hole of the sink and again press down firmly. At the underside of the sink, place a rubber gasket on the basket strainer followed by a washer and then finally thread on the lock-nut. Using a pair of pliers to hold the strainer in place, tighten the lock-nut with a wrench so that the strainer is secure. Do not over-tighten it or there is a risk of damage to the sink. Remove any excess plumber’s putty that may have been forced out at the top or bottom of the strainer. After the strainer has been secured in place, the tailpiece can be inserted. First, insert the washer at the top of the pipe, and then tighten the slip-nut so that it securely fastened to the strainer. Now that the drainer and tailpiece are in place, the p-trap can be installed. First, test fit the replacement p-trap and mark to cut the inlet portion if it is too long. The inlet should fit smoothly into the end of the drainage pipe. After ensuring that the pipes are adjusted correctly, insert the p-trap. Afterward, fasten the slip-nuts and tighten them with a wrench.

Installation for BOTH Standalone Shower and Combination Tub & Shower

INSTALLING THE FIXTURES FOR SHOWERS AND COMBINATION TUB & SHOWERS

When the time comes to replace or install new fixtures in an existing tub shower or standalone shower, there a number of variables that should be kept in mind to make the process easier overall. Here are a number of easy-to-follow steps that could go a long way toward making the job simpler.

COMBINATION TUB & SHOWER AND SHOWER REPLACEMENTS

These may be one of the more complicated installations to swap out fixtures for because of the staggering variety of models available. There are also different things to take into consideration based on the age of the building and the type of pipes installed for the tub and shower.

It is important to note that is a good idea to shut off the water going to the bathroom before modifying any of the fixtures. If the job is a simple case of replacing the faucet trim, no major work will be required. All that needs to be done in this case is to remove the face plate, unscrew the handles and remove them before installing the new handles. In some cases, it may also require the removal of the escutcheon (the decorative plate that rests against the wall behind the faucet.) If further work needs to be done, such as the removal of the valve, it is best to attempt to access the pipes from the wall behind the faucet. If the pipes have been installed in an outermost wall of the home – something that is generally only done in warm climate areas where frozen pipes aren't an issue – then the work will have to be done from the wall in the bathroom. This will require extra work, such as removing tile and cutting into the wall to get access to the valve. Remodeling plates come in handy in this case, as the plates will cover the larger holes in the tile from having to get access to the valve. These plates are similar to the escutcheon in that they provide a decorative backdrop for the trim while still offering functionality. The downside to having to go through the front and using a remodel plate is that the new trim must only have one handle for the plate to be usable.

If the valve has been installed in an interior wall, access should be relatively easy. After uncovering the valve from the front of the tub, find the point on the other side of the wall that matches up to it. A section of the drywall will need to be cut out from the wall so the valve can be accessed. The steps from here on out vary depending on the type of supply pipes used. Very old plumbing may be using galvanized steel pipes. If there are no unions by the valves, cut the galvanized steel pipe on all sides of the valve. Remove the valve and then un-thread the cut pipes at their nearest junction. At this point, it would be a good idea to purchase the PEX adapters needed to connect the replacement PEX tubing to the existing steel connections. Ensure that the adapters being purchased match up with the threads of the steel fittings. After the adapters are installed, cut the PEX tubing as needed to fit the replacement valve and connect it to the adapters. If the installed pipes are copper, the replacement is far easier. Simply cut out the valve using pipe cutters and solder in the new valve and copper connections. Replacing existing PEX connections should be the simplest of the three, as a simple tubing swap should suffice. After the old valve is removed in any case, replace it with the new valve that matches the trim selected for the bathroom. Once the valve has been installed, install a cover panel for the section of the drywall that was removed and return to the bathroom to begin work installing the new trim. First, reattach the escutcheon if it was removed, then install the replacement cartridge for the valve. Reconnect the handle, and then turn the water on to check if the water is flowing correctly and responds to temperature changes.

As far as measurements go, there are a few things that should be kept in mind. There are specific distances between the floor and fixtures that will have to be kept standard even if replacing the valves, handles or shower heads. Firstly, the distance from the floor to the shower head needs to be at about six and a half feet. The shower handle should be between 45 to 48 inches from the ground. If it’s a combination shower and tub, the handle should be a bit lower, at around 32 inches from the ground. In bathtubs, the spout should be installed anywhere from 4 to 6 inches from the rim of the tub.

Replacing the trim of the bathtub or shower drain should be a fairly straightforward and should not require any major work. The drain can be removed using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver for leverage. The drain should easily unscrew from the threads and a new replacement can easily be dropped and threaded in. It’s important to keep in mind that for the best results it’s important to buy a drain that matches the manufacturer of the drain being replaced. A small ring of plumber’s putty on the inside rim of the drain should be all that is needed before threading on the new drain. After forming a tight seal, remove any excess putty and the drain should be set.