Installation for BOTH Standalone Shower and Combination Tub & Shower

INSTALLING THE FIXTURES FOR SHOWERS AND COMBINATION TUB & SHOWERS

When the time comes to replace or install new fixtures in an existing tub shower or standalone shower, there a number of variables that should be kept in mind to make the process easier overall. Here are a number of easy-to-follow steps that could go a long way toward making the job simpler.

COMBINATION TUB & SHOWER AND SHOWER REPLACEMENTS

These may be one of the more complicated installations to swap out fixtures for because of the staggering variety of models available. There are also different things to take into consideration based on the age of the building and the type of pipes installed for the tub and shower.

It is important to note that is a good idea to shut off the water going to the bathroom before modifying any of the fixtures. If the job is a simple case of replacing the faucet trim, no major work will be required. All that needs to be done in this case is to remove the face plate, unscrew the handles and remove them before installing the new handles. In some cases, it may also require the removal of the escutcheon (the decorative plate that rests against the wall behind the faucet.) If further work needs to be done, such as the removal of the valve, it is best to attempt to access the pipes from the wall behind the faucet. If the pipes have been installed in an outermost wall of the home – something that is generally only done in warm climate areas where frozen pipes aren't an issue – then the work will have to be done from the wall in the bathroom. This will require extra work, such as removing tile and cutting into the wall to get access to the valve. Remodeling plates come in handy in this case, as the plates will cover the larger holes in the tile from having to get access to the valve. These plates are similar to the escutcheon in that they provide a decorative backdrop for the trim while still offering functionality. The downside to having to go through the front and using a remodel plate is that the new trim must only have one handle for the plate to be usable.

If the valve has been installed in an interior wall, access should be relatively easy. After uncovering the valve from the front of the tub, find the point on the other side of the wall that matches up to it. A section of the drywall will need to be cut out from the wall so the valve can be accessed. The steps from here on out vary depending on the type of supply pipes used. Very old plumbing may be using galvanized steel pipes. If there are no unions by the valves, cut the galvanized steel pipe on all sides of the valve. Remove the valve and then un-thread the cut pipes at their nearest junction. At this point, it would be a good idea to purchase the PEX adapters needed to connect the replacement PEX tubing to the existing steel connections. Ensure that the adapters being purchased match up with the threads of the steel fittings. After the adapters are installed, cut the PEX tubing as needed to fit the replacement valve and connect it to the adapters. If the installed pipes are copper, the replacement is far easier. Simply cut out the valve using pipe cutters and solder in the new valve and copper connections. Replacing existing PEX connections should be the simplest of the three, as a simple tubing swap should suffice. After the old valve is removed in any case, replace it with the new valve that matches the trim selected for the bathroom. Once the valve has been installed, install a cover panel for the section of the drywall that was removed and return to the bathroom to begin work installing the new trim. First, reattach the escutcheon if it was removed, then install the replacement cartridge for the valve. Reconnect the handle, and then turn the water on to check if the water is flowing correctly and responds to temperature changes.

As far as measurements go, there are a few things that should be kept in mind. There are specific distances between the floor and fixtures that will have to be kept standard even if replacing the valves, handles or shower heads. Firstly, the distance from the floor to the shower head needs to be at about six and a half feet. The shower handle should be between 45 to 48 inches from the ground. If it’s a combination shower and tub, the handle should be a bit lower, at around 32 inches from the ground. In bathtubs, the spout should be installed anywhere from 4 to 6 inches from the rim of the tub.

Replacing the trim of the bathtub or shower drain should be a fairly straightforward and should not require any major work. The drain can be removed using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver for leverage. The drain should easily unscrew from the threads and a new replacement can easily be dropped and threaded in. It’s important to keep in mind that for the best results it’s important to buy a drain that matches the manufacturer of the drain being replaced. A small ring of plumber’s putty on the inside rim of the drain should be all that is needed before threading on the new drain. After forming a tight seal, remove any excess putty and the drain should be set.